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Climbing Anchors (How To Climb Series), by John Long, Bob Gaines
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This completely revised and updated edition with all new color photos�brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up solid belays. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.
- Sales Rank: #81756 in Books
- Size: One Size
- Color: One Color
- Brand: Globe Pequot Press
- Model: Falcon Guides
- Published on: 2013-07-02
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.25" h x 7.50" w x .50" l, 1.20 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 224 pages
- Author: John Long, Bob Gaines
- ISBN#: 9780762782079
- Publisher: Falcon Guides
- Publication Date: 2013
- Jacket: paperback
From the Back Cover
Climbing Anchors, 3rd provides the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors to safeguard your life. John Long, the author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more than 100 photos.
Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail.
And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the “traditional wisdom” that guided choices in the past—and was often wrong.
Completely updated and accompanied by all new color photos, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.
About the Author
John Long is the author of the best-selling How to Rock Climb!, the world's foremost book of climbing instruction, now in its fifth edition. He lives in Venice, California.
Most helpful customer reviews
14 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
A fine update to a classic
By Former Rater
Technology is always advancing. The world of climbing consisted of "crag men" and "alpinists" when I started. To say that we're a long way away from soft iron pins and hauser-laid nylon ropes is an understatement.
Today's tools to protect a climber are better engineered, startlingly lighter, and more versatile than five year old kit! Making safe and efficient use of today's tools involves a much steeper learning curve than at any previous time (that's why this book is on its third edition!).
Safe climbers will learn the ropes from other, more experienced, climbers - but, as so many of today's "sport climbers" began climbing indoors with well engineered safety systems and artificial holds - not everybody will have had the advantage of a mentor teaching them the mechanics of building bomb proof anchors. That's where this book and Craig Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors become invaluable, required, additions to every climber's library.
This new edition is, as expected, up to date, including sections dealing with the uses and drawbacks of Aramid "tech cord" as well as nylon and dyneena/spectra ropes and slings. A detailed look at old bolts and bolt hangers is unique to this book and extremely timely material. Many 1/4" bolts and their hangers are found on standard routes and most, if not all, are traps for the unwary.
The use and placement of (at least) three pieces of bomber protection to craft Serene / Ernest belay anchors employing the cordelette or Web-O-Let equalization system is the heart of this book. How placements respond to loading direction, avoiding force multiplication by keeping load angles optimal, dealing with shifting loading, and stressing that no leader should ever fall directly onto the belay anchor are central chapters.
The bolt and pin (piton) chapters are not guides to the deployment of those tools - the scope of this book is limited in the sense that it does not teach a climber how and where to place a bolt - it teaches how to recognize and use safe bolts and gives a brief bit about the types of fixed pins one might encounter and how to deal with them (as for learning to use pins, the authors suggest an aspiring iron-monger take a rack of pins to an old crag and practice bashing in as many pins in as many places as possible - a fair enough bit of advice).
If you climb anywhere outside of a gym, you need this book and you need Luebben's book. Aside from what you can learn away from your nearest vertical playground, these two books will serve you well in bringing enough knowledge to the field that you will not be ignorant of what other climbers are doing right, and, especially, what they are doing wrong.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
An indispensable reference guide and wakeup call
By A. Kagan
Having read the previous two editions and then given them to friends (sorry John, they never returned them!), I'm pleased to see the third edition has been updated with new gear and anecdotes, while continuing to be a great reference guide for climbing efficiently and safely.
Most importantly, Long strengthens the case for letting go of the idea that the cordelette is good for general purpose anchor-rigging, reinforcing that it should only be used in limited circumstances (specifically, only when the arms of the cordelette are the same length). He also clearly explains how to minimize loading on anchors, and how to tie in to anchors safely. This s*** is more than theoretical armchair advice...it will save your life one day, and you are better off learning the right way to do things early on, rather than after you've burned in a lot of bad behavior.
Climbing Anchors jumps right in to the subject matter and presupposes some basic rock climbing knowledge and vocabulary. This is an ideal book for intermediate climbers starting to lead multi-pitch routes, where you have to build an anchor instead of clipping a couple of bolts, although there is a lot of information on safely rigging and clipping bolted anchors and fixed protection as well. You'll learn a lot about equalizing load on pieces and building anchors that anticipate loading from multiple directions. Long will relentlessly drum into your head the importance of placing protection (the "Jesus Nut") ASAP after starting a pitch to protect you from falling directly on the anchor...because you only get one chance to get this right.
You will be surprised at how many assumptions you've made about redundancy and equalization that are likely mistaken...and you'll probably look back at some near misses (we've all had them) and realize how lucky you are that you didn't take a dirt nap. I can pretty much guarantee you will never clip into an anchor with a daisy chain again!
Climbing is serious fun, but the serious part shouldn't be overlooked, as the consequences are just too high. Bad anchoring techniques only need to fail once for you to be an example in the AAC's "Accidents" annals. You'll have a lot more fun when your confidence in your anchors is not misplaced!
Long's style is light and droll, with a smattering of humorous anecdotes. The book provides many full-page images and illustrations of anchor placements, along with many beautiful shots of classic routes that relate back to the subject matter.
Bottom Line: You will climb safer and enjoy more confidence on multipitch routes after reading this book.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Long and Gaines recommended v. Luebben
By Don Jon
I had read the Craig Luebben anchors book, but found it disorganized and vague at times. I have read the first 30pgs of Long and Gaines book and so far it is far superior to Luebben's text. Long and Gaines make clearly defined points which they support with physics, statistics and experience. Hand-waving scientific explanations are not proposed as fact. This text is clear and well reasoned, and therefore recommended over the Luebben text. (Admittedly I am only 1/6 through the text. Will update post upon further reading)
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